MORRIS ARBORETUM BLOOMFIELD FARM COMMUNITY GARDEN
Covid19 precautions for 2021--
To ensure a safer environment in the garden, kindly observe the following:
Bring your own hand tools to prevent cross infection from sharing community tools.
Wear gloves when using the wheelbarrows, or bring your own buckets to move things.
Masks are a courtesy to your neighbors.
Observe social distancing--six feet from any other gardener not living under your roof.
If you do not feel well, stay home.
Wash your hands thoroughly for 20 seconds upon return home.
Be safe and well.
WATER CONSERVATION--the most expensive item you pay for each season
The following information is from Dan Guest of the Water Committee, April, 2019:
Here is a list of items and rules to keep in mind when using the water system:
Protect the pipes and spigots - When using wheelbarrows, shovels, hoes, etc., please do not hit or scratch the pipes or spigots. A simple slow drip from the system can waste hundreds of gallons of water (AQUA charges us about a penny a gallon). Please protect the pipes with wood chips where you pass over the pipe and put some chips under the pipe to support it if there is a gap. Don't bury the pipes for the sake of knowing where it is so you don't hit it and also keep the weeds down around the pipe so we can see the leaks.
Turn on the spigots slowly and turn them off when you leave - This is important since people have lost hoses and water by not doing these two things. The water pressure is very high in the pipes if you happen to be the only one gardening at the time. Please only turn the spigot knob very slightly to get water into your hose. We can adjust the overall water pressure but we are keeping the pressure full for the moment so the system can handle multiple waterings. Also not closing the spigot when you leave and keeping water pressure in your hose usually results in a hose break and a flood. Again, please turn off the water at the spigot and only slightly turn the spigot to get minimum water pressure. Make sure your connection of your hose to the spigot is tight and you are not dripping water there. New rubber washers are available at garden supply centers.
Call the Water Committee if you see a leak or drip - Two of us are on the water committee, Dan Smith (610-476-2577) and Dan Guest (215-480-0490). If for some reason we can't be reached, call Jay Kaiser (484-402-8483). Our numbers will also be on the bulletin board at the garden. If it is a major leak and you can close some valves to stop the leaking, please do so to save water. There are valves at the bottom of each pipe branch that can be closed and there are valves by the backflow preventer that can be closed. These are all ball valves and they just need a quarter turn to close them.
Please respect the signs at the garden and yellow tape/bags on the lines if the water is off - The Water Committee will post signs and cover up valves that are closed if the line is being repaired. It is important to keep these lines closed since they recommend at least 24 hours to dry the glue which connects the pipes. We will post when we think the water will be back up if under repair. You can always call us to find out the status if signs are missing.
Use Water Sparingly - Keep in touch with the weather to know when it rained and use minimal water when you do water. I use the water puddles in the parking lot as a sign. If they are full, it just rained and your plants are watered. Keeping the water pressure low in your hose will keep the water from overflowing your plants or washing out your soil. Soaker hoses are also good to use. Common sense things which I'm sure you are using already.
Let's all treat the water system well and hope for minimal leaks and downtime. Water is our largest expense at the garden so if we can save there, we can use money toward additional fertilizer or equipment in future years.
Thanks for your cooperation in advance and call if you have any questions.
Dan Guest 215-480-0490
Dan Smith 610-476-2577
NO WEEDS IN THE AISLES
You are responsible for keeping the aisles around you plot, and in your plot, weed free from the opening of the garden in the spring to the close of the garden in the fall, even if you have shut down your plot, for example, in September, with the garden closing later in the season. You are contracted with this task and, if necessary, will be reminded of your duty. Responsible gardeners are invited back the following year.
Our community garden is organic, so chemicals cannot be used for weed suppression. Sweat equity works by hand-pulling weeds after it has rained when the ground is moist, releasing the weed roots more easily<http://www.chicagotribune.com/lifestyles/home/ct-sun-0618-garden-morton-20170612-story.html>
, or hoeing during dry weather. Newspapers that use non-toxic soy-based ink can be used with a layer of mulch overtop to deprive weeds of sunlight. <http://www.agardenforthehouse.com/2013/05/how-to-smother-weeds-with-newspaper/> Cardboard manufactured in China may include unknown (toxic) substances, so it is suggested for your safety that that be used only in the public aisles, not inside the gardens. Salt hay purchased at a garden center and spread over beds at the beginning of the season can help to suppress weed emergence.
The refuse pile is by the mulch and wood chips piles. Please take care to dump weeds BEHIND the sign, not in the aisle. Noxious and invasive weeds can be collected in plastic bags to be left by the yellow trash receptacle at the fence to be picked up with the trash. Please use grocery-sized bags, fastened at the top (no large trash bags here--too heavy). Noxious and invasive weeds are listed below.
Non-invasive, annual weeds can be used as green mulch in the aisles of your plot. Shallow tilling with a hoe cuts and kills young weeds that can be left to die in the sun, as long as they are not in the seed stage, saving you from transporting them anywhere else and keeping down the amount of bio waste. Or, these non-invasive, annual weeds not in seed can be placed in a black trash bag, watered lightly, and kept in your plot where the bag becomes a composter in the sun. Or, dig a trench and bury the weeds, covering with at least 5 to 6 inches of soil so they decompose in situ to provide more soil.
Please observe the blue recycle receptacle next to the yellow trash receptacle. If trash or garden refuse is placed in the blue container, the recycle stream becomes contaminated.
Weeds with asterisks in front of the name are important to foragers.
NEW for 2021--seeds came in with the 2020 flood:
Distinctive green rosette above ground with long white taproot. Second year has stalk with yellow flowers. PULL WITH GLOVES--juice in sunlight can cause chemical burns on skin.
NOXIOUS AND INVASIVE WEEDS (do not place in the refuse pile):
Native to Asia, pinellia is an invasive weed here. It has three green leaves and a white
stem, and spreads by round, brown rhizomes ("nuts") underground, bulblets on the stem
(stem can be very long), and seeds, from what appears to be a tall, skinny jack-in-the-pulpit "flower."
Pulling will not eradicate this. It must be dug up (pitchfork preferred so that the stems
stay attached to the rhizomes), and collected and discarded in a sealed bag placed in the
trash. If it is recycled in the compost heap, it will return again and again to your and your neighbors' gardens. When you see the "jack in the pulpit," collect it immediately and discard in the trash.
Special note: Make sure all residues are cleaned off gardening tools and footwear as you
leave the community garden so that no part of it is introduced to your home and yard.
Thistle spreads extensively and deeply underground. Roto-tilling breaks the roots into
smaller pieces that become individual plants, increasing their number. Thistle attracts insects that damage corn and tomatoes.
Dig them out, bag, and discard in the trash. Continued stress on the plant, continually pulling it at any stage, limits its spread and hastens its demise.
Black walnut saplings
Toxic to some plants, including tomatoes and peppers. Probably planted by squirrels.
Use a pitchfork to remove the deeply buried nut. Discard in the trash.
More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juglans_nigra
Lanky, grass-like weed.
Hand pull, continuing to pull as you follow the stem back, especially before seeds set.
More info: https://www.epicgardening.com/crabgrass/
Ground ivy will creep into your plot around the edges. A member of the mint family, it
spreads underground and is difficult to completely eradicate. Pull and discard.
Leaves look like chrysanthemum leaves with a wooly underside. Plants spread
vigorously by rhizomes (horizontal underground stems).
Requires persistent pulling, and digging out of the rhizomes if you want to eradicate it.
More info (ignore chemical control): https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/mugwort
COMPOSTABLES--before flowering and seed set
Large, broad leaves and spiky flower/seed stalk.
Pull and compost or shallow till.
More info (ignore chemical control): http://www.farms.com/field-guide/weed-management/broadleaf-plantain.aspx
Pull when soil is moist.
Spreads horizontally with oval shaped leaves.
Pull and compost or shallow till.
Germinates and spreads during warm winters and is then up early in the spring with long
stems and tiny flowers. Makes root mats that can be pulled out.
More info (ignore chemical control): http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74129.html
Crown grows strongly; used to be a pest plant in the garden plots. Deeply rooted so deep
digging is required to remove it successfully. Plants cut down to 2" provide leaves that
can be made into compost tea in a bucket with rainwater or from the hose.
More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comfrey
French for "tooth of the lion," describing its leaves.
Deep taproot must be dug up completely to be eradicated. Remove flowers to keep
ahead of seed formation. Compostable (but not the seed heads, please!).
Similar members of the mint family (square stems), providing nectar in March and April. Dead nettle (no stingers) has leaf stems; henbit leaves attach directly to the main stem. Compost before seeds set.
If you think you are lucky enough to have morning glories without having planted them,
you are wrong. You have field bindweed, an invasive.
Pull as soon as it appears (two opposite square-shaped leaves), or try to get as much
root/rhizome up as possible and then untangle it from your fence and plants.
More info (ignore chemical control): ://ipm.ucanr./PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7462.html
Fleabane flowers look like little daisies.
Pull and add to compost heap or shallow till.
Lambsquarters is dusky, appearing to be covered with a white powder.
Pull and add to compost heap or shallow till.
You will know that you have nettles when you are stung.
Pull, or dig out the taproot if the plant is established. Plants may be composted.
A weed with spiked pink flower clusters.
Pull and compost or shallow till.
More info: https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/2393/
Pigweed has a reddish stem and looks unkempt from the get-go, its leaves full of holes.
That is because it attracts insects like flea beetles and leaf miners. Reproduces easily.
Can be pulled and composted or shallow tilled.
Purslane is related to portulaca. It has fleshy, succulent leaves and a spread-out habit
with yellow flowers.
Pull it, making sure to get out the complete root system.
Source of allergy suffering when it blooms.
Hoe or hand pull, preferably before it matures and flowers.
Wild strawberry is initially planted via poop of birds and animals that have eaten the
fruits. It spreads quickly.
When pulling, it is necessary to get all the roots and runners.
More info: https://en.wikipedia./wiki/Fragaria_vesca
Wood sorrel leaves resemble clover with three part leaves, small flowers and reddish
Pull, removing the rhizome clump, and add to compost heap or shallow till.
More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalis_stricta
All links viewed 2/7/2021
© C. Heinsdorf 2/21